Madnesshere you go guys a guide answering all your questions
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How to find refundable stores and their limits (for your country)
Ok, so the first question you will ask yourself before a refund is 'which store should I refund'. For this, the better question to ask yourself is 'what item am I looking to refund'. Once you have found a item, this simplifies the process of finding stores which you can use to refund the item you want.
I'll give you examples of refundable sites on this post and will tell you how to find more by yourself.
For clothing items: Nike (DNA working) , Zalando (Empty box) , Adidas (DNA or empty box if signed for/ a picture was taken.) (these are the highest success rate clothing stores). There are many more, but these 3 are the best for beginners as they are extremely easy to do with a very, very high success rate.
For electronics: Amazon (the absolute best, but requires precautions which will be explained later), Macy's, and if you're British, Curry's PC World, Argos (However, they require PayPal claims right now). Same as before, many more stores which you can find yourself which will be explained.
For those who would like to refund other stores or would like to know which stores they can confidently refund, there's a very good and simple method for that. Go to the Premium Sellers > Refund Services section of nulled, where you will see many refund services. Now find any trusted refunded (with high reps) just so you know they are legitimate and look at their store list that they offer.
Common question beginners may ask: 'They're professional refunders!! I'm not. How are you so sure I can do a refund on these stores? I'm a beginner!'
Well, the sad truth is that these 'professional refunders' use some of the most basic and simple methods to refund most of the time. They're experienced, sure and this is why we're able to use their store list to figure out what stores we can refund and their limits, HOWEVER, the methods refunders use are all the same.
I'll be teaching you in this post how.
Refund methods & how to figure out which method to use for a specific store:
This is another common problem beginners face. There are 3 main refund methods that are used by refunders, or anyone who refunds, which one do I use?:
- DNA - Did not arrive - when your package delivers, you contact the company claiming that your package never arrived.
- Empty box method - when your package delivers, you contact the company claiming that you received an empty box with nothing inside of it
Lastly, FTID is a more advanced method which requires boxing (it's not difficult but requires a lot more knowledge and information). I'll be posting about this separately. For beginners, it's best to stick with DNA and empty box.
This method is really simple, you received your package, wait a few days (for higher success rate) this could be 2-3 days, and then contact the company and essentially complain that you've waited 3 days for your item to arrive and that it's been shown as delivered. You need to be frustrated, but not rude. Explain how your purchase was a gift for a family/ friend and how important it was that you got it to them on time. This guilts and pressures employees into refunding you. If they offer a replacement you can simply tell them that it's too late now as their birthday was tomorrow so you were forced to go out and buy it at a store.
This method used to be very, very popular years ago and most companies now have added security. This is why I do not recommend using this method. Now, companies investigate and check tracking, and delivery services take pictures of delivering parcels. If this method is patched why is it in the guide? because...
There is 1 place this method still works, amazingly. Amazon. Also works for Nike (tested in the UK)
Amazon track deliveries, sure. But they don't require a signature (because of corona virus, I'll update this method if they start requiring signatures). A common thing that's been happening with Amazon is them leaving your parcel outside of your house. This makes it very easy for any stranger to walk by and take your package. Amazon understand this and refund quite rapidly when people complain about their parcel not arriving.
For refunding Amazon, before refunding an expensive Item, I advise you make a smaller purchase (1-4 smaller purchases) this can be $1 purchases, it doesn't matter. After this, you order your expensive item (usually up to $1000+) and well, say it didn't come.
If you want to refund amazon several times, make another few purchases before ordering your next big item and refund again. HOWEVER, it will always be better to create a brand new account and redo the steps you did the first time.
TO AVOID GETTING ADDRESS BLACKLISTED: Add a typo to your address but still make it trackable. For example: 43 Penrhyn Crescent is the address on your first account. The address on your second account becomes No 43 Penrhyn Crescent, third account: 43 Penrhyn Cresc etc etc. The address is still trackable as the post code remains the same but the address is written differently. This avoids the amazon detection system from linking your account.
If I missed anything or you have more questions feel free to reply to this post of dm me, I'll gladly help and update this post accordingly.
Empty Box Method Explained
This is the method you'll be using for majority of your refunds. You make your order, wait for it to deliver and when it delivers you contact the company and complain about receiving packaging with nothing inside of it. Act confused and frustrated as again, it was important that you had this item on time for blah blah. Just make it sound important. In some cases they'll ask you to return it but continue complaining about how there is nothing to return as you were sent an empty box. If they're persistent on you returning the empty box then ask for a returns label so that they pay for the return and all you have to do is take the opened box to the post office and send it and get your refund while keeping your item.
This shouldn't happen anyways. Just continue acting frustrated because you need the item for nothing important (upcoming birthday etc) and this'll get you refunded.
Important note: Companies often ask if the box was damaged, say NO. If you say the box was damaged they will trigger an investigation whereas if you claim that the box was not damaged, they usually accept responsibility and refund you for customer satisfaction.
What if the refund doesn't work? I didn't actually want to pay $1000 for a computer!! - You have nothing to worry about. In the small chance that the refund fails, every refundable company have a returns policy. This means you can take your item back FOR FREE (no shipping charge) and get all of your money back. You can try again after, it'll definitely be worth it once you successfully refund. Make sure you don't buy items to refund using ALL of your money as it can sometimes take weeks to get refunded. It's good to have spare money in your bank while you wait for the refund. But rest assured you will NEVER actually pay the the item you intended on refunding as you can ALWAYS return it in the case of a failed refund.
Refunds are not worth it if I can get into legal trouble. Is it safe? How can I avoid my parents finding out?: Well, the only way you will get into legal trouble is by doing very, very expensive refunds and abusing it. If you refund a company 20 times for $10,000 items, for example, then yes you could get into legal trouble.
However, 1 $15,000 refund will never get you in trouble. If you only did it once then they cannot prove that you're lying about not receiving the package. This is why you're able to refund to begin with. Also, I'm not saying you can only refund once.
Feel free to refund $500 items 10 times in the same company, this is a total of $5000 in refunds. Companies will have to pay more than this to even attempt to sue you and don't have the time to do that if they're spending the money they will get from you on the lawsuit anyways?
If you want to do very expensive refunds, several times, use different delivery and billing addresses, get vcc's and drops. Basically, don't link the purchases to you in any way possible which is going to be difficult and risky but I don't recommend this.
Stick to refunds 5k or less in my opinion, don't greed and take precautions.
The most trouble you can get in is well, the company banning your address and card from ordering from them again.
To avoid parents from finding out, simply don't tell them. You will never receive letters to your house about this. They'll think you just keep ordering things and wonder where you're getting the cash from but just say the items you're buying are $1 worthless crap or whatever reason you can think of.
Just don't get blacklisted from a site your parents use as that's how they'll find out. Follow precautions as I said earlier (changing the address etc) and waiting a week between refunds, don't greed read more guides than just mine to make sure that you have absolute certainty that you know what you're doing.
EDIT: if you're refunding on PayPal or see refunders offering much higher rates for PayPal stores, this is because they use FTID (which is a more advanced and the best current method) I didn't go through this as this is more for beginners that want to get into refunding on common stores like amazon, nike, etc but I'll be posting on FTID soon, I apologize for not mentioning this before, I'm sure if you go around on nulled there's some posts on FTID or just ask around, I hope you understand, have a nice day.
(For now, get used to refunding using the methods taught using the example websites I gave earlier.)
Also, empty box works 10x better if you order a small item with the big item you want to refund ( 1 $5 item + 1 $300 ) then you claim the $5 came but the $300 item was missing. This makes you much more believable and increases your chances.